Boople Snoot and Danger Noodle

I love snakes.  I don’t have a snake because we are a “We only have room for one reptile!” house and Charmander the Bearded Rage Beast currently fills that spot.  Anyway I enjoy photos of snakes, though I seek them out cautiously or I have to spend a few hours cuddling my rats (yes, I could get attached to literally anything).  The best are snakes in tiny hats.

set-up-e1495071517271.jpgNow aside from snakes in hats I love almost all tiny things.  Issue is with tiny skaines of yarn that there is not enough to do anything with.  So when I had to work with tiny balls for my work’s yarn tasting I decided to make a snake to use them up.

I went back and forth on whether to knit or crochet, but decided to go with knitting as I’ve been crocheting a lot lately.  As I said this was a pattern meant to use a lot of small amounts of different colors, so this is a very simple color work pattern.

Straight stripes seemed boring, expecelly on stockinette, so I broke them up a bit. I think it made it a little more visually appealing. Really you can put any pattern you want on here, from the most basic of stripes to a super detailed color work is it strikes your fancy. I have A LOT of colors in here, but that is because, like I said, it was meant to use mini skeins. You really don’t even need stripes you can do it solid if you want, just ignore the color changes. I don’t cut the yarn during the small changes, but carry it up so I don’t have any many lose ends at the end.

The idea was originally to do a curled up snake, but while minding the shop and running the event I didn’t have a lot of time for extra shaping and this pattern was written on the fly while doing all of that. So the body itself is a super simple tube with a slow incress at the start. The only tricky part there is that the cast on is only 6 sts. I’m sorry guys. I hate doing patterns that have such a small cast on on DPNs, I always drop my needles at least once, but for the shape here I kind of had my hands tied. All the shaping on the body is done with a piece of yarn run through and tacked now and then to bend it like it is slithering.  A few of the more extreme slithers were stitched in after the snake was done.

Once you get to the head there is a lot more going on at the split, but it stays pretty simple considering.  There is no seaming, you’ll put the second head on stitch holders while you work on the first.

Stich MarkersOverall that is what you have.  A small shout out to Galen for the awesome birthday gift of Halloween Stitch Markers and Row Counter that I got to use on this project!

On to the hats!  The hats are made with my limited skills in polymer clay.  There was a lot of debate about what hats to use.  A few of the not chosen were top hat and crown.  For this part I literally googled tutorials.  I ended up using just one and applied roughly the same concept to make the fez, because for some reason most of the clay fez tutorials I could find had faces on them.

Cowboy Hat – by Chicken Feet’s Clay Art on youtube

Really though this point just go nuts.  I made a few to many and there may have been some misuse of tiny hats.

 

Just make sure you poke holes in them big enough to get your needle through when you need to sew them on later, also remember to consider the placement of your holes, I had to do some strange sewing to get the fez on right.

And on to the pattern we go!

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Boople Snoot and Danger Noodle

 

 

Yarn:

  • Cestari’s Monticello Collection – MC (double stranded)
  • Kramer Fountain Hill – CC1 (double stranded)
  • Stonehenge Mill Crazy Yarn – CC2
  • Malabrigo Rios – CC3
  • Araucania Yarn Huasco – CC4 (double stranded)
  • Cestari’s Montpelier Collection – CC5

Obviously my yarns were different weights and I had to double strand to get consistency.  You can really use any kind of yarn you want as long as it is/or you make it, roughly the same weight.

Needles:

  • US3 DPNs

Notions:

  • Stich markers (3)
  • Stich holder
  • Yarn needle
  • Buttons or Safety Eyes
  • Tiny hats (I used clay to make mine)
  • Stuffing (you’ll need to do this as you go, I won’t be promoting you to do so in the pattern)

Abbreviations:

  • CO – Cast on
  • BO – Bind off
  • K – Knit
  • KFB – Knit front and back
  • M1R – Make one right
  • M1L – Make one left
  • K2tog – Knit two together
  • SSK – Slip, slip, knit
  • PM – place marker
  • SM – slip marker

Body:

With CC1 CO 6 stitches and join.

Row 1: K

Row 2: (KFB, K) 3 times

Row 3: K

Row 4: (KFB, K2) 3 times

Rows 5-8: K

Row 9: (KFB, K3) 3 times

Rows 10-13: K

Switch to MC

Row 14: (KFB, K4) 3 times

Rows 15 and 16: K

Switch to CC1

Rows 17 and 18: K

Switch to MC

Row 19: (KFB, K5) 3 times

Switch to CC2

Row 20: K

Switch to MC

Row 21: K

Switch to CC1

Rows 22 and 23: K

Switch to MC

Rows 24-27: K

Switch to CC2

Rows 28-37: K

Switch to MC

Rows 38-10: K

Switch to CC2

Rows 41 and 42: K

Switch to MC

Row 43: K

Switch to CC3

Row 44: K

Switch to MC

Row 45: K

Switch to CC2

Rows 46 and 47: K

Switch to MC

Rows 48: and 50: K

Switch to CC3

Rows 51-60: K

 

Repeat Rows 38-60 three more times with each color.  You will have worked 106 rows.

Switch to MC

Row 107: K

Row 108: (K2tog, K5) 3 times

Row 109: K

Row 110: (K2tog, K4) 3 times

Switch to CC5

Row 111: K

Row 112: (K2tog, K3) 3 times

Switch to MC

Rows 113 and 114: K

Row 115: K3, M1R, PM, K6, M1L, PM, K3

Row 116: K

Row 117: K to marker, M1R, SM, K to marker, M1L, SM, K3

Repeat rows 116 and 117 until you have a total of 28 stitches ending after a knit row.

Head One:

Slip the first 14 stitches to a holder or bit of scrap yarn, removing stitch markers in the process.  Remove remaining stitch markers as you work the next row (add a new one to mark the new start of the new row.)

Row 1: Join stitches and K

Row 2: K7, M1R, PM, K7, M1L

Row 3: K

Row 4: K to marker, M1R, SM, K to end, M1L

Repeat the last two rows twice more until you have 20 stitches left.

Row 9 and 10: K

Switch to CC1

Row 11: K to 2 stitch before marker, SSK, SM, K to last 2 stitches, K2tog

Row 12: K

Repeat rows 11 and 12 twice more.

Switch to MC

Continue to repeat rows 11 and 12 until you have only 8 stitches left, ending after a knit row.  Transfer first 4 stitches to one needed and last 4 to another.  If you are using safety eyes put them on now.  Using Kitchner Stitch sew closed.

Head Two: 

At this point your going to want to stuff your first head as it will be hard to do once your to the point of stuffing your second.

Transfer the stitches off the holder and divide them among your DPNs.  Start with CC3.

Row 1: K all stitches but don’t join, pick up and K3 along side of head one, join

Row 2: K to last 3 stitches, Sl as if to purl, K2tog, psso

Row 3: K7, M1R, PM, K to end

Row 4: K

Switch to MC

Row 5: K to marker, M1R, SM, K to end, M1L

Switch to CC5

Row 6: K

Switch to MC

Repeat rows 5 and 6 twice more.  You should have 20 stitches.

Row 10: K

Row 11: K to two stitches before marker, SSK, SM, K to last two stitches, K2tog

Switch to CC3

Repeat rows 10 and 11 twice more, ending on a decrees row.

Switch to MC

Continue to repeat rows 10 and 11 until 8 stitches remain, ending after a knit row.

Transfer stitches 4 and 4 like you did for head one.  If you are using safety eyes put them on now.  Do your final stuffing and use Kitchner to close.

If you are using button or bead eyes sew them on along with any hats or other decorations you want.

NOTE: This pattern is currently not bataed.  If you find any issues please feel free to send me corrections.  If I were to do him again I might make the body thinner like the neck, but at this time I haven’t tested any of those changes.

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